Pictures from '68

Here are a few enthralling pictures. Courtesy of Sam Smith:--

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1300 Block of H Street the Morning After

Mr. Henry's




! ! !

Sam Smith's 1968 Manuscripts

Attached are Sam Smith's manuscripts, which he provided to the Working Group after he attended our third meeting. It's pretty fascinating stuff from someone who was there and able to articulate it so well:--

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In my neighborhood, the Age of Aquarius often looked more like a war zone. Many of the people there were not part of a counter-culture but of an abandoned one. Even the jukebox at the Stanton Grill -- purveyors of Greek and American food to white Appalachian boarding house residents -- played the Supremes and the Temptations, not Bob Dylan.

The grill, open from 6 am to 10 pm, was run by two Greek brothers, Pete & Sam, who split the shift. They never took a vacation and put at least one boy through collage through their unflagging provision of braised short-ribs, chicken Greek style, and "I Hear a Symphony" calling from the juke box. They fed the old Capitol Hill roomers, the guys from the union hall down the street, and a few young singles like myself with good plain food that varied no more over the yeas than the shade of brick on the school across the street. One of their sons now owns a restaurant on Capitol Hill.

We lived in one of the toughest sections of town but experienced relatively few problems. Which is to say that two cars of friends were stolen from our block. Our house was broken into several times. Once, a half gallon of vodka was returned to us by the police, complete with blood stains and evidence tag. I kept it like that in my bar. Some months later, the house was broken into and the bottle stolen again.

There were also a few break-ins that were less than routine. One afternoon I came home and found my front door busted open. Through the void, two friends were pushing an ugly old mantle piece they thought would look nice around my fireplace.

I had bought the traditional Washington row house on 6th Street NE after becoming engaged, but before getting married. I assured Kathy that the neighborhood was safe. It was, after all, only about four blocks away from where I was already living. The neighborhood kids who helped me move weren't so sure. Over lunch at my new abode, one observed that he "wouldn't come over here with the whole US Marines."

"But," replied another, "it's better than Death Alley."

"Death Alley?"

"You know, Sam, that alley behind your apartment." I had never thought about it from a kid's point of view, but he was right: the dead end of Death Alley would not be a pleasant place to be trapped.

The meat and potatoes of our coverage were the endless meetings taking place in the community, not a few of them spurred by questions as to what to do and who should do it with the money coming from the war on poverty. Everyone knew Robert's Rules of Order and its locally sanctioned addenda: "Mr. Chairman, I have an unreadiness." Sometimes meetings broke up in pandemonium. One was literally turned around after the chair declared it illegal. The vice chair, a minister and cab driver who wore a clerical collar around his neck and a coin holder on his belt, stood up in the back of the room and announced that the meeting would go on and requested everyone to turn their chairs around. Most did, leaving the chairman speechless in what was now the rear.

On another occasion this same preacher-cabbie urged the audience to "Calm the tempest, bridle tongues, and govern our thoughts." It didn't work. The minutes of the group bring back the flavor, if not the purpose, of the dispute:

The meeting was held on the above date with Mr. Swaim presiding. As a background he reviewed the Annual Assembly of Delegates which was not held because there was no quorum, and questions concerning the By-Laws, missing minutes and the fact that the Executive Committee minutes were not available . . .

Mrs. Mayo felt that all people should be allowed to speak. Mr. Geathers stated that it was not legal for non-members to participate. Mrs. Mayo then asked, "Who are the members?" Mr. Geathers stated that we were going to establish definitely the answer to this question . . .

The meetings may have seemed chaotic but they were actually part of a community coming alive, of power being transferred to better places, and of the anarchistic results of discovering hope. And you met some wonderful people covering the story, people like the Reverend Imogene Stewart of the Revolutionary Church of What's Happening Now.

And public housing activist Lucille Goodwin. Ms. Goodwin, it seemed, spent all day on the phone. A long-time resident of Langston Terrace public housing in Near Northeast, constantly cropping up on anti-poverty boards and committees, ever-present at the big fights, chairwoman of the citizen's advisory arm of the Neighborhood Legal Services program, she had plenty to talk about. A memo had come in the mail that she wanted to read, someone was putting something over on someone else, or perhaps she just had to report that at some local meeting "those folks messed themselves up good last night." She carried out her civic functions with an energy more typical of one half her age, and she did so despite an ill and old husband who had to be helped in and out of rooms and who would sit quietly in a corner fiddling with a little plastic soldier while his wife took on the accumulated offenses of the system. It was her intensity and concern more than her language that carried her through, and she would toss around transliterated multisyllabic words like confetti. Everyone knew just what Lucille Goodwin meant even if they hadn't understood what she said. One day, though, she ended her call with a message that hung around. "You know how you got to treat them people downtown?" she asked, and then without waiting offered the solution: "You gotta technique 'em."

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It is one thing to use political power; it is another thing to be denied political power and still produce change. It was the latter talent that a number of exceptional and unexceptional Washingtonians developed following the awakening of a local civil rights movement. The old-line groups, like the white liberals on the Home Rule Committee, the local NAACP, and the black ministers would plod along with traditional lobbying, petitions, and failure and increasingly they would be estranged from agitators, troublemakers, and radicals like Julius Hobson, Sammie Abbott, and Marion Barry. The newer activists realized that without the vote, policymakers would be influenced only by techniques and strategies that surprised, confounded, aggravated, delayed, or just plain scared them.

The biggest manifestation of this new spirit in our neighborhood came in 1969 when Bob Smith created a large Alinsky-like umbrella group called the Capitol East Community Organization. At its first convention, representatives from more than 70 groups showed up to form what the Washington Post called a "broadly based, citizen-run community coalition."

Not everyone was impressed, though. Regina Cobb, chair of the DC Family Rights Organization, took one look at the proposed slate of officers and demanded, "Why are there so many well-to-do people on the committee? Why aren't there more poor people?"

Before long, seven new names had been added to the slate of 13 vice presidential candidates, among them Mrs. Cobb. Again she was not impressed: "I didn't ask to be nominated as a board member, I asked to be president." She lost.

Mrs. James Morrison of the League of Women Voters also had an objection; she wanted to know what the body's condemnation of the Vietnam War had to do with Capitol East: "Let's deal with Capitol East and not worry about the rest of the world at this assembly."

CECO would be short lived, one of its most noticeable achievement being window signs that warned gentrifiers, "I love Capitol East and will fight to STAY!" The organization's demise was speeded by the financial misdeeds of the director that led to a court trial notable for the appearance of two nuns as character witnesses. He may have been a sinner, but he was our sinner and not the courts. Saul Alinksy would have smiled.

Only a few national figures gave more than passing attention to the city. The most striking exceptions were Lyndon and Lady Bird Johnson. When Congress wouldn't act on home rule, LBJ gave the city its own de facto government through the expediency of a bureaucratic reorganization, his appointees instructed personally by the big man to "act as if they had been elected." And Ladybird personally directed a beautification program for our neighborhood. This was no publicity shot, rather a carefully designed program in which she enlisted the efforts of premier landscape architect Larry Halperin who produced one of the few urban plans I've seen that didn't involve the probable displacement of currently resident citizens. Further, she assigned a White House staffer to work with neighborhood leaders -- using skill instead of spin -- in carrying out the project. There would be periodic reports of a White House limousine arriving in our neighborhood as Mrs. Johnson quietly checked on how things were going.

Washington was a city of dichotomies, contrasts, and striking inequalities. It was the capital of a major democracy that lacked local democracy. It was a citadel of power whose residents lacked power. It was a city with an excess of multimillion dollar office buildings and a shortage of housing. It was a city that was wealthier than most in which a sizable minority lives in great poverty. It had a 70 percent black population but the major decisions were still made by whites. It was a city in which the American dream and the American tragedy passed each other on the street and did not speak. It was, finally, a city that had suffered a form of deprivation known primarily to the poor and the imprisoned, a psychological deprivation born of the constant suppression and denial of one's identity, worth, or purpose by those in control. Washington to those in power was not a place but a hall to rent. The people of Washington were the custodian staff. And the renters were as likely to visit the world in which this staff lived as a parishioner is to inspect the boiler room of the church. The purpose of Washington's community was to serve not to be. Its school children were not taught the history of their city; they were told little of its significant men and women. There was no city festival or parade. In fact, this repository of national history didn't even have a local history museum. The city's present was suppressed, its future was a hostage, and its past was ignored.

This was the city that civil rights activists and other reformers determined to - and did - change. This change was cultural as well as political and increasingly the old ways and the new found themselves in conflict. For example, having discovered that there were more African-American books in the libraries in the white parts of town than in the black city, I decided I better check out the meetings of the library board of trustees. There I found not only an all-white board but a chair in his 90s serving his colleagues tea and cookies.

Leaders of a reform movement at the Edmunds-Peabody Elementary School parent body also ran up against the old ways at a meeting so heated and controversial that the citywide PTA sent its president and two vice presidents to serve as monitors. The organization's vice president, Bessie Turner, repeatedly interrupted the proceedings with instructions such as "Madame Chairman, the names of the nominated slate must be on the left had side of the board." During a break, I attempted to engage the formidable Turner in conversation. She told me, "I'm not interested in reporters. I defy you to write anything I don't want in."

In the end, Ted Jones won the heated election for president by a vote of 28 to 26. Mrs. Turner called the new officers forward. Ramrod straight, she read from the PTA's encomium to itself as contained in its manual and instructed the audience to rise as she recited the "objects" of the organization,. Asked whether they intended to help the new officers attend to their duties, the parents obediently responded, "I do." Mrs. Turner then told the officers that "I sincerely hope you will follow your manual. If you follow its provisions you will not get into any difficulty." She handed Jones his gavel but said he couldn't have the official PTA president's pin because he wasn't a woman and that the pin would be held in escrow until the election of the next woman president. And she promised to send all the new officers their own manual.

The issues the Gazette covered and the causes it pressed ran the gamut. We campaigned for the then novel idea of packer sanitation trucks to replace the high sided open trash trucks. And we warned readers not put dog and cat dirt in their trash cans, quoting a trashman as saying, "How would you like to stand up in that truck in that stuff all day?'

We also quickly became a leading voice of the anti-freeway movement, and a precocious supporter of light rail and bikeways years before such phenomena became popular. Kathy would later recall going to an anti-freeway meeting and being astounded at the thought that we thought we were actually going to stop a highway. In fact, we didn't stop the one we were fighting; it sliced through Southeast Washington, dividing public housing from the rest of the community. The Gazette ran a photo two young boys looking wistfully up at "Southeast's Berlin Wall." But before it was all over, people like us all over DC had stopped hundred of lane-miles of planned road that would have made the city look like an east-coast Los Angeles.

There was always something to save - such as the 200-old trees in Lincoln Park - and something to promote -- such as a new swimming pool - and something to cover - such as activists Janie Boyd and Marguerite Kelly, who were taking on the local supermarket chains. They challenged quality disparities between outlets in different parts of town and campaigned for the open dating of meat. Meat at that time was dated with a code known only to supermarket employees. The Gazette took the bold position that "an understandable date on each package of meat would be of considerable value to the shopper," noting that "we have shared with other consumers the experience of having meat go bad soon after it has been brought home and put in the refrigerator."

The consumer activists also went comparison shopping, coming up with prices at inner city Safeways up to a third higher than those in a white section of town. Further they demonstrated that prices were hiked when welfare checks came out.

During congressional hearings, Rep. Henry Reuss double-checked the figures at lunch time, returning to the hearing room with bags of groceries that he place on the podium. When a Safeway official blamed some of the price differences on human error, Reuss responded, "In an hour and half I found quite bit of human error."

We also ran a feature on Jane Hardin who had opened a combination laundromat and legal services office on Pennsylvania Ave., where on the first day someone stuck a quilt into a washer, jamming up the pipes. And we wrote about community police officer Ike Fulwood who, as we drove past some grim public housing, remarked, "There's trouble. They never ask the police their opinion when they build public housing." Fulwood would eventually become the city's chief of police.

But things were already well beyond the capacity of any one community to solve. America's cities were starting to burn and you could feel the heat even in Capitol East. In September 1967, anti-poverty activist Lola Singletary convinced the white businessmen of H Street to form a organization dedicated to involvement in community problems The group, the Gazette reported, "intends to deal with such issues as employment, welfare, safety, health, housing, recreation and urban planning."

In late 1967 I came up with the idea of pulling together the various leaders of Capitol East into an informal leadership council with the possibility of forming a major neighborhood coalition. Fourteen people attended a meeting on January 31: 7 white and 7 black.

Among our purposes:

To share our group differences so we can increase our knowledge of one another's group positions, plans and needs.

To increase opportunities to share our group concerns so that we can better support one another's group efforts.

To obtain full representation for our community in civic and governmental affairs.

To unite in common action where we have agreement.

Your participation in the Council does not commit your organization to any position or organizational arrangement.

In February 1968, I wrote in the Gazette:

As contrary as the thought is to our national self-image, it is entirely possible that we are giving up the struggle to solve the deepest problems of our cities. ~ National Guard troops are undergoing special training. Hotlines are being established. Armored trucks are being purchased. Police riot equipment is being beefed up. ~ Ramsey Clark, the Attorney General, was probably correct when he told a group of police chiefs and city officials recently that the nation's power to deal with urban riots is increasing faster "than the underlying layers of frustration that cause them."

On March 6, I wrote a prospective member

Although the Leadership Council has yet to establish a formal structure, the present trend appears to be in favor of a loose federation of leaders, relatively unstructured, and designed so we can act effectively when we have agreement but not get hung up when we don't.

In the issue that appeared in late March, I wrote:

It seems like a lot of people, both the militants and the extremist moderates, are putting down Martin Luther King. I share some of the doubts that have been expressed as to whether his efforts this spring will make any difference. On the other hand, I wonder whether anything will. MLK does have one big factor in his favor. He is doing something. Congress isn't. The White House isn't. The District isn't. The Urban League isn't. Stokely isn't. Possible or impossible, King's show is the best we have in town this spring and it behooves all who would like to see some changes made to lend a hand.

That same month, the US Court of Appeals ordered the city to halt construction on four major sections of the city's freeway system. For a change, it looked as if we might be winning.

On the evening of April 4, 1968, I was up on T Street with a group of anti-freeway protesters picketing the mayor's house, when word came of Martin Luther King Jr.'s death. We went home as the police cars poured by filled with shotgun-armed and helmeted police.

The next morning things were quiet enough that we went about our business as usual. But I came home that afternoon from the office to find a slow stream of people walking down the street with liberated articles: hangers full of clothes, a naugahyde hassock, a television set. Somewhere in our neighborhood a woman walked off with a case of whiskey from a liquor store. When she got home she realized she didn't have any soda to go with it. She went back and was arrested as she tried to liberate her chaser.

There were only a few whites living in the block; but I felt little tension or hostility. I mainly noted the black smoke drifting down from H Street, four blocks away. Kathy was out back working in our foot-wide strip of garden, listening to reports of looting and arson on a portable radio as a black fog settled in. We decided to go up on the roof for a better look. H Street was burning. Others areas had gone first and the radio reported a lack of fire equipment to deal with the situation a few blocks to the north. I tried to count the fires but they congealed under the curtain of smoke.

We decided to pack just in case. For about ten minutes we gathered an instinctive selection of nostalgic items, favorite photos, the non-valuable but irreplaceable. Then we looked at what we had done and laughed. Like loyal children of our generation, we settled down in our smoky living room to watch on television what was happening to us.

At six-thirty the next morning, a white friend from around the corner rang our doorbell. He wasn't in trouble; he just wanted company on a tour of the area. We got into his car and drove to H, Seventh and 14th Streets. As I looked at the smoldering carcass of Washington and observed the troops marching down the street past storefronts that no longer had any brakes, I thought, so this is what war is like. As we drove past a gutted store on 14th Street it suddenly reignited itself and flames leaped towards the pavement.

That day and for several days thereafter, we stuck to home. The trouble had flared again. We received anxious calls from friends and relatives in another parts of town and in other towns. We assured them we were all right; they seemed more upset about our physical safety than we were and I did not want t alarm them by speaking what was in my mind.

For a year and a half of running a neighborhood newspaper, I had observed, and tried to report, a part of the community seething with emotions much of the other part refused to recognize. Now it was worse than even I had thought and anger, frustration, and helplessness washed up on my mind's shore.

I subconsciously prepared myself for it to get worse. In the middle of one of the riot nights, I awakened to a rumbling noise in the street and ran to the window expecting to see tanks rolling past our house. There were no tanks. In fact, the physical threat of the riots barely touched us.

The strange ambivalence of the riots -- the slashes of violence mixed indiscriminately with the sparkle of carnival, the sounds of racial war penetrating the tranquility of a white couple's home four blocks from disaster, our strangely ordinary experiences in an extraordinary situation, -- made the disorder a crazy amalgam that took weeks to sort out. For months after, when sporadic violence hit stores in our neighborhood, I expected to find our newspaper office smashed and looted. It wasn't, despite the inviting glass storefront. I was inclined, with normal self delusion, to attributed this to having paid my dues. It was more likely that our second hand electric typewriters weren't worth the candle when there was a whole Safeway up the street and a cleaners right on the corner.

Some people seemed to think I had something to do with it all. One of my advertisers, the photo dealer Harry Lunn, told me late one night that if anyone firebombed his store he was going to come and personally burn my house down. He had been or was still with the CIA so I tended to take him seriously.

Len Kirsten, an advertiser and owner of the Emporium, was more blasé. A lady walked into the store one day and, spotting the pile of Gazettes on the floor, said, "Isn't that a Communist paper?"

"Oh no," Len replied cheerfully. "The editor's a communist but the paper isn't."

On the other hand, Lee, of Helen & Lee's Chinese carryout was totally indifferent to politics. Lee and his wife ran a regular ad bragging that the carryout had been recommended by their four doctor sons. One of the items on the menu was a pork chop sandwich -- the chop still on a bone slapped between two pieces of Wonder Bread. After Helen died, the sign over the door was changed to read: & Lee's Carryout.

Another favorite advertiser was Harry Spack, owner of. Spack's Chicken on the Hill, which had a storefront windows filled with an 1883 Swiss music box, an airplane propeller, opera glasses, statuettes and drug store jewelry. There are Arabic sabers hanging over the restroom doors and travel posters on the wall. Also "the world's smallest bar" -- a few shelves filled with miniature liquor bottles.

"Now someday this place is going to have class," Spack told our reporter, Greg Lawrence. "You know -- cosmopolitan, relaxing, with fine music from the past. For instance," he said as he reached for an object under the counter, "this vase from Europe has been dyed by its creators in pigeon blood. Now I ask you, what other cafe on Capitol Hill features decorations dyed in pigeon blood?"

The riot did more than $3 million worth of property damage. In the vicinity of H Street and some 124 commercial establishments and 52 homes were damaged. Another 21 businesses were damaged on or near 8th street. I wrote:

The destruction did not end with the quelling of the riot and the removal of federal troops who had guarded the area after being called in by city officials. Sporadic arson occurred, primarily along H Street, doing hundreds of thousand of dollars additional damage. . . Reaction varied from the intense anger of many white merchants at the failure of police to shoot looters to the feeling on the part of some community leaders that a new opportunity had been created to correct old economic and social wrongs.

During the riots, Mayor Walter Washington had been called to the office of FBI director J. Edgar Hoover, where he was told to start shooting looters. Washington refused, saying that "you can replace material goods, but you can't replace human beings." Hoover then said, "Well, this conversation is over." Replied Washington, "That all right, I was leaving anyway."

At the time of the riot early 25% of the labor force in Capitol East was either unemployed, earning less than $3000 a year or employed only part-time. Over half of all adults living in the east part of the neighborhood had eight years or less schooling. Over a quarter of the housing units in this same area were listed by the census as dilapidated or deteriorating.

Not long after the riots it was Easter and three local ministers, Tom Torosian, Jesse Anderson and Ralph Dwan held a sunrise service on 8th Street, refusing what Camus called the sin of despair.

January 7, 2008

The third meeting was marked by a presentation of the 1968 riots by long-time journalist Sam Smith. Mr. Smith went in to great detail, as noted below. Afterwards, we looked at a possible route of the Trail, just to brainstorm ideas.

Below are a list of notes from the third meeting:--

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Sam Smith Presentation

Jane Levey introduced Sam Smith, a longtime DC journalist and founder of the Capitol East Gazett Mr. Smith spoke about the 1968 riots and the context for the riots. During 1965-1975 the Smiths lived at 613 Sixth Street, where they were one of about three white couples living in the neighborhood. The Gazette offices were on H Street. He also worked as a radio reporter and covered the funeral of Sweet Daddy Grace as well as the Glen Echo boycott. Before 1968 H Street was a healthy, major shopping area in the city.

Mr. Smith became an activist at age 29 during the 1966 bus boycott organized by the Student Nonviolent Coordinating Committee (SNCC) in response to a fare increase. More than 100,000 people boycotted the city buses on January 24, 1966. Volunteers drove their cars along the bus routes and picked up passengers; Mr. Smith drove the X2 route. He also covered the boycott as a journalist. Later, the boycott’s leader, 28-year-old Marion Barry, called Mr. Smith and asked him to help with the movement to Free DC as a writer and communicator. Mr. Smith did so. Eventually Stokely Carmichael became involved locally and announced that whites were no longer welcome in the movement. Mr. Smith stepped away but became involved with Julius Hobson who focused more on class than race issues. [Mr. Smith became a founder with Julius Hobson of the DC Statehood Party.]

Mr. Smith noted that before 1968, Washingtonians generally had the feeling that the president, Congress, and other powers would do the right thing in the end where the city’s rights were concerned. But this sense of hope changed with the assassinations of John F. Kennedy, Rev. Dr. Martin Luther King, Jr., and Robert F. Kennedy. “You can’t underestimate the shattering effect of these three deaths,” Mr. Smith said.

There was a lot going on in the city in the period before the riots. The Civil Rights and antiwar movements, and the War on Poverty. People were coming out of the neighborhoods and proving themselves as activists. One was John Leyton, a former West Virginia coal miner, who died soon after the riots. Another was [didn’t get name], a cab driver and preacher. Others: Mrs. Mayo and Lucille Goodwin, a longtime resident of Langston Terrace who had a sharp eye for what was going on. Change was happening everywhere.

Mr. Smith got involved in other fights during the 1960s, campaigning against freeways, promoting light rail, challenging food quality disparities among Safeway supermarkets in different neighborhoods (Marguerite Kelly of the “Family Almanac” column in the Washington Post got involved in this); and promoting open dating of packaged meat in supermarkets (Wis. Rep. Henry Reuss held hearings on this).

In September 1967 Lois Singletary convinced the business owners on H Street to form an organization, and on Jan. 31, 1968, Mr. Smith organized the Capitol East Leadership Council, whose purpose was to “unite in common cause when we have agreement.”

The riots did not happen in a vacuum; lots of fights were being waged. In the H Street area, where “24 percent of the labor force was unemployed or underemployed.” Until Home Rule came in 1967, there were no significant political organizations to deal with this problem. “The civic and citizens associations were the best and strongest thing we had,” Mr. Smith said.

Mr. Smith was picketing Mayor Walter Washington’s house as part of the anti-freeway campaign on April 4, 1968, when word came of Dr. King’s death. He went home and saw people “liberating” items, including a Naugahyde hassock. The Smiths decided to stay home after initially packing their most precious things and preparing to leave. They looked out over H Street and saw the individual fires congealing. They stayed home for a few days. Although the riots caused more than $3 million in damages in the H Street vicinity, the Gazette office didn’t get vandalized. Eighth Street SE was also quite badly damaged.

DC got home rule sooner because of the riots, Mr. Smith believes. More on this subject is found in his 1974 book, Captive Capital. Some of his presentation at the meeting was drawn from the book and some from other writings.

One of the real tragedies of the riot aftermath, Mr. Smith said, was that rebuilding didn’t occur. He advocated in vain for the creation of tax-free zones where businesses could come back without paying property taxes.

The casualty count for the riots was low, and the murder rate barely changed after 1968. One reason was that Walter Washington refused to shoot looters, as J. Edgar Hoover had requested him to order.

Lady Bird Johnson came to H Street after the riots. She selected Capitol Hill East as a location for major beautification efforts. Also, urban planner Larry Halperin came in and developed a plan that – for a change – didn’t involve the replacement of people or businesses. (Most urban planners plan for a “better class of people,” Mr. Smith noted.)

“LBJ was a real blessing to this city, whatever his faults,” Mr. Smith said. “He said home rule was second to the Civil Rights Act in his civil rights actions.”

LBJ called John Hechinger to the White House and asked him to take over the city council as if he had been elected. Hechinger reluctantly agreed. Walter Washington was appointed mayor/commissioner, then mayor. At first he used three different letterheads: mayor, commissioner, and mayor-commissioner, depending on the politics of the person to whom he was writing.

The Territorial Act of 1871 was the beginning of the slide for DC, Mr. Smith said. The loss of home rule at that time was largely based on fear of the newly enfranchised black electorate. This was the Reconstruction era.

In the post-Reconstruction era President Wilson segregated the federal government after his wife complained about seeing black men working alongside white women in federal agencies. Thus DC experienced segregation and colonialism at the same time.

On the other hand, the African American education system under segregation drew black families who wanted to enroll their children in DC schools. Again, Mr. Smith’s notes are attached to these meeting notes.

More H Street Stories from the Working Group and Sam Smith

The topic of alley dwellings arose. Alley dwellings were mainly tiny two-story, four-room brick buildings with no plumbing or electricity that were built in the deep backyards of houses beginning in the Civil War era. These houses faced the alleys that ran in the middle of the blocks, and generally opened onto cobblestones. A Working Group member described alley dwellings behind the Atlas Theatre: very small homes with no yards. A black preacher would walk up and down some Sundays preaching. It was like an open-air theater. People leaned out their windows to listen to him, crying Amen, etc.

One of the characteristics of the South, Mr. Smith said, was that whites and blacks knew each other’s history, and knew each other, even with segregation. He grew up in Georgetown, next door to a black family, but went to segregated schools.

Ms. Hier said that Halloween was a big occasion on H Street in the late 1930s. There were lots of people in costumes on the street. She remembered running around the neighborhood with two cousins. Her section of the neighborhood was called “Little Lebanon,” and “Little Italy” was “on the other side.” Demitri Nader was her next-door neighbor then.

Carnivals and circuses used to set up in an open field at Benning and Bladensburg roads in the 1930s. The circus was held at Uline Arena, but the circus animals and performers lived in the tents at Benning and Bladensburg.

October 30, 2007

The second meeting was an impressive one. Of particular note were the memories shared with the group by Ms. Evelyn Kogok Hier, a long-time resident with a very active memory to say the least, and Mr. Anwar Saleem, also a long-time resident who gave a touching personal account of the day the 1968 riots broke out in the nieghborhood.

Below are the notes:--

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Neighborhood Stories/Research Topics

Mary Bakota talked about her Elliott Street neighbor, Pete (she couldn’t remember his last name), whose family was the first African American family in the neighborhood. Pete’s father worked to build the Smithsonian but was injured on the job. She also mentioned an 87-year-old brick mason.

Marqui Lyons said lots of musicians had played along H Street, including Shirley Horne and the Malachi Brothers. The Kavakos hosted famous musicians.

Evelyn Hier, who was born in 1926 and grew up at 1328 Maryland Avenue, NE, said she had operated Jo’s beauty shop at 500 H Street, NE. Her parents immigrated from Lebanon and settled first in Southwest, soon relocating to the Maryland Avenue address. Her father arrived first, in 1906, carrying $500. Then he brought his wife (in 1909?). He returned to Lebanon only once to visit.

Ms. Hier was the youngest of nine children; she moved from Maryland Avenue in 1951 when she married. This was a small, tight-knit Lebanese community with at least 30 families. The priest (Salloom – his granddaughter lives on East Capitol) lived next door. After church on Sundays (St. George’s Antiochian, 1009 H Street, NW – it moved to 16th and Webster in the 1950s) people would sit out on their porches and smoke hookahs, passing them around. People were outside all the time, Ms. Hier remembered, and were in and out of each other’s houses. As a teenager, she would sneak out of the house at night and eat hotdogs. She went to Elliott Elementary School and Eastern HS with Chuck Levin.

Ms. Hier’s father’s confectionery was on 4-1/2 Street, SW, on the site later occupied by HEW. It made sugar-coated peanuts and chocolate-covered nuts, and sold sandwiches as well.

Ms. Hier presented a long list of places she remembered. Spellings will be corrected.

- Fussell’s ice cream through the alley from the Atlas Theatre

- Mr. Ferris’s candy (Lebanese) next to Peoples - Kavakos Confectionery

- Kopy Kat Department Store – 11th and H (“Their stockings were rotten!” according to Gloria Corbitt.)

- Kresge’s 5 & 10

- Princess Theater

- Open market next door to theater. There were lines strung up with cut-open rabbits.

- 1417 H – Ms. Hier’s father owned a property at that address, and his tenant put a barbershop there.

- Coin arcade, pinball place

- Chinese restaurant

- Sanitary Grocery

- Curtis’s barbershop

- Kay Jewelers (or its predecessor)

- Henry G-something’s restaurant

- A fantastic seamstress next door to Brown’s dry goods.

- Club Kavakos at 8th and H

- Hamilton Bank next door

- Duke & Cooksy’s auto dealership

- Ourisman’s Chevrolet

- Gas station on corner going toward Bladensburg.

- Little Tavern, nickel hamburgers, at 8th & H. Later it was a seafood place.

- Tiny rowhouses with no front yards where poor people lived and a street preacher walked up and down.

The Hiers have photographs and will provide them for the project.

Mr. Gallo said he had talked to the Kokino family, who lived on 13th and Maryland and owned a candy store at 1103 H Street, NE. He passed around copies of photos of the store. They moved the store to NW about the time that some of the larger stores consolidated and drove out some of the smaller businesses. Ms. Hier knows the Kokino family.

Helen Wood said she remembered Packard’s restaurant, Sealtest Ice Cream Co., a recycling (or salvage) place on or near Fenton Street near GPO (Swampoodle), and some horse troughs where the bus station is now. She used to live at 96 K Street, NE. The 5th police precinct used to be on 10th Street, and the Little Sisters of the Poor had a soup line.

Ms. Levey asked whether the bridges and viaduct acted to cut off and/or define the neighborhood, and several people responded yes, they had created a divider.

Marqui Lyons suggested adding to the list of sites the Washington Brick Yard near the arboretum, which used local clay. Mr. Saleem said the bricks produced here were soft and required a special mortar. Mr. Gallo mentioned that Richard Layman had written a history of the area and mentioned a Washington Machine Brick Co.

Other ideas added to the list of sites:

- Beverly Theater on 15th Street near Miner School

The group clarified that Miles Long was a submarine sandwich place with two locations: one at 8th and H and another on North Capitol.

Ms. Lyons said blacks had moved to the H Street area from Southwest and from Foggy Bottom because of urban renewal in those two neighborhoods. Ms. Levey explained that H Street, where Jewish merchants dominated, had never been segregated. Morton’s at 7th and H was an example.

Anwar Saleem remembered knowing everybody. Doors were open at night and the neighborhood was very safe. You only had to worry about mosquitoes.

Ms. Levey explained that DC has seen a couple of eras of urban renewal, including Georgetown in the 1930s and Southwest in the 1950s, also Foggy Bottom. During the Civil War, blacks walked away from slavery, came to Washington, and settled around the forts. Those settlements were later wiped out; for example, the community around Fort Reno was replaced by Wilson High School.

Mr. Saleem mentioned that Italians had lived in the neighborhood, too: stone carvers who worked on the Capitol. Italians dominated the police department into the 1950s and 1960s, he said.

Ms. Levey asked for stories about the 1968 riots. Ms. Wood said she saw the fires on H Street from Linden Street. She was pregnant and stayed home. “It was horrible. You could feel the heat and couldn’t open the windows for the smoke.” The south side of H Street from 8^th Street to 14^th Street burned, she said.

Mr. Saleem said he’d been in 5^th period band class in junior high April 4, 1968. “They told everyone to go home and lock their doors. We decided to go investigate. We saw folks begin to loot on H Street and at the new Safeway behind Capitol Hill Hospital (it was 1-2 years old then). We defied our parents and watched what was going on, saw fires being set. I was in Morton’s when it was set on fire.” Mr. Saleem’s friend, Vernon Marlow – who was 12-14 years old at the time – died in the store and his body stayed there in the rubble for 10 years. Mr. Saleem “watched Kay Jewelers burn to the ground. The bricks were red hot. You could see where buildings had come down in back – the facades stayed – and you could see red-hot steel beams.”

Ms. Wood said, “When the National Guard came we wanted to give them something to eat because they only had C-rations, but they wouldn’t accept anything because of so much mistrust. My husband was in the military.”

Mr. Saleem: “They locked people up in the Armory. It was like a concentration camp.”

Ms. Wood: “The draft was in effect then.”

Mr. Saleem: “Many enlisted in the military service just to get out of the trouble they’d gotten into here. Kids getting off the bus from school couldn’t get home because of the fires and smoke, so people took them in. Some people looted food because there was nowhere to buy food. You couldn’t move around. The suburban malls weren’t there then.”

Ms. Wood: “You couldn’t even get to the farmers’ market because of smoke. People soaked towels and put them around the windows to seal out the smoke. This was over a two-week period.”

Mr. Saleem: “There was a little bit of everything going on. Some business owners burned their own store if it wasn’t doing well to collect the insurance money and get out. Others didn’t have insurance and were out of luck.”

Ms. Hier said her family’s business (run by her mother’s brothers), Kojak’s Liquors and a carryout on Mt. Olivet Road near Gallaudet, were burned out.

September 19, 2007

During the first meeting, we took a general overview of the history of H Street. Attendees were asked to remember all they could and to share it. Once the group got rolling, things started coming out. It was great to see what was coming out after just 20 minutes of conversation and mutual reminding!

Here is a list of things we discussed:--

* * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * * *

Topics to explore

Businesses and Enterprises

H Street in the 1930s and 1940s was the second busiest commercial corridor in the city, second only to F Street. It served a diverse population with mid-level businesses and bargain stores. The commercial area was dominated by Jewish merchants. The construction of Benning Bridge helped the neighborhood grow and develop. H Street was just inside the original boundary of the L’Enfant-planned city, which ended at Florida Avenue (old Boundary Street) and Bladensburg Road.

Businesses

Beverly Ice Co.

Calvin A Beauty Salon, formerly a beauty academy. The daughter of the owner has photos.

Chuck Levin’s Washington Music started here. He served everyone. Store is now at 11151 Veirs Mill Road, Wheaton, MD 20902, http://www.chucklevins.com, 301-946-8808.

Hechinger’s (now CVS). This may have been the first Hechinger’s location. (See story on Developing Families facility in Washington Post.)

H.L. Green, where Cluck U Chicken is now

jewelry stores

Jupiter

Kay Jewelers, went on to become major suburban chain; this may be original location.

Mr. Mason’s barbershop might be the oldest continuous business in the neighborhood

McBride’s

McCrory’s

Morton’s

Men’s Fashion Warehouse (Jerry Goldkind, owner) has been around a long time.

O. Henburg’s on Morse Street

Ourisman Chevrolet – between 6th and 7th on H. This was their original location.

Sears

Smokey’s formerly was Jake’s Barber Shop – it opened at 4 or 4:30 am

Stewart Funeral Home – now on Benning Road

toy stores

Movie Theaters

Apollo movie theater – 624 H Street (1913-1955), now demolished. Built on site of open-air theater called Imp Park. Apollo had open-air hot-weather theater on adjacent lot for many years. See Headley movie theater history.

Atlas Theater, 1331 H St., (1938-1976) – formerly movie theater for whites only; now converted to performing arts center. Story of its restoration.

Langston Theater, 2501-2507 Benning Road, NE (1945-1977), demolished (see Headley movie theater history)

Plymouth movie theater – 1365 H St. (1942-1952), opened in convert car (Plymouth) salesroom. It’s now the H Street Playhouse.

Princess movie theater, 1119-1121 H Street, NE (1909-1948), demolished 1948.

Restaurants/taverns/nightclubs/Entertainment

Horace & Dicky’s has been there a long time.

Ice cream place near 15th and H

Argonaut (used to be a bank)

Klub Kavakos (segregated) had fights. Became the Coco Club. See http://www.victoriansecrets.net/kavakos2.html

Uline Arena: roller derby, wrestling, boxing, circus, Malcolm X, concerts

Grocery Stores

DGS stores on the corners off H Street.

Florida Avenue Market, wholesalers to the city

Hucksters’ wagons

Safeway – formerly two on H Street. One is now Hairlocks, the other is Murry’s.

Korean and Vietnamese merchants (esp. at Florida Avenue Market?)

Nearby Institutions/Employment Centers

Department of Human Services

Gallaudet University

Government Printing Office

Post Office, 1016 H Street

Churches/social services

Douglas Memorial Church – formerly segregated

Little Sisters of the Poor Orphanage, later Children’s Museum

Life in the Old Days

Law prohibiting chickens in the city, impact on rural-type activities of residents

Schools and segregated education

Recreation house at 10th and G. White only for many years, they closed the pool rather than allow African Americans to swim there.

Lovejoy ES

Brown JHS

Cardozo, Dunbar or Armstrong High Schools

Pierce School (white) – closed a long time

Eastern HS (white)

Transportation – H Street was a transportation hub

Capitol Cab at Third and K

Car barn at 15th Street

Streetcars, conversion to buses

Trailways bus station

Union Station and the Brotherhood of Sleeping Car Porters members who lived in the neighborhood; also the Pullman Company offices on H Street. Some Pullman porter families remain. Marqui Lyons’s family worked for the Pullman Co.

Try Me Soda

People:

Mr. Christian (library’s namesake) – daughter still around

Congressional staffers on E Street

J. Edgar Hoover – CK whether he lived in neighborhood

Miles Long

Malcolm X spoke at Atlas, Uline Arena

Dr. Granville Moore – African American physician who grew up in the neighborhood

Nadine Winters (now lives in SW) – ran Hospitality House, was Council Member